Find these Coilover springs on Amazon! http://amzn.to/R95kuu
Quick review on a set of universal coilover sleeves with a single locking perch.
-Any questions will be answered as best as possible.
If you enjoyed the videos and would like to keep track of what's next, like me on Facebook.
For written reviews, check us out @ https://www.greymarketreviews.com
How to Install Raceland BMW E30 Coilovers
BMW E30 Installation
To begin, remove the lug bolts and front rim from the vehicle.
On the backside of the caliper remove the two bolts holding the brake to
the hub. Pull the caliper off the rotor and position it out of the way
ensuring that it is not hanging from the brake line.
Locate the speed sensor attached to the rear of the hub and remove the
mounting allen bolt. Once the bolt is removed, twist and pull the sensor to
detach it from the hub.
This speed sensor will also be attached to the top of the brake shield.
Unclip the wiring from the shield and move aside.
You will now being to remove the hub assembly from the vehicle. To start
remove the nut holding the control arm ball joint to the hub.
Now on the other side of the hub, remove the nut holding the tie rod arm to
Often times your tie rod end will be wedged into the mount after the nut
has been removed. To release this, use a hammer and with moderate force,
strike the hub just above the tie rod arm bracket.
On the shock body, remove any wiring that may be clipped onto the unit.
Simply pull these clips to remove.
Like the tie rod end, you may need to strike the control arm bracket above
the ball joint to break the taper loose. You may also need to pry the joint
away from the hub.
Now under the hood, locate the three nuts holding the upper strut mount to
the vehicle. Remove these nuts keeping in mind that these are the last
mounting nuts holding the shock to the vehicle.
You are now able to pull the shock out of the wheel well to begin the next
Due to the spring tension on the top mount, you'll want to use spring
compressors to remove this tension from the strut and mount.
Once the unit is secure in the spring compressors it will be safe to remove
the top piston bolt from the shock. When this bolt is removed it is now
safe to release the tension on the spring compressors.
Using a pipe wrench or other strut tool, remove the top cap holding the OEM
shock insert into the shock body. The OEM shock insert will now slide out
of the housing.
Slide the new Raceland shock insert into the OEM housing. Using the
supplied Raceland replacement strut cap, tighten this cap completely to
secure new insert into housing.
The spring new spring seat will thread on to the top of this new cap. Slide
the Raceland spring perch over the piston, line up the threads, and tighten
the perch to the cap with the supplied wrench.
The OEM bump stop will be removed from the old shock, trimmed, and reused
with the new coilover setup.
Position the Raceland spring on the perch with the smaller end of the
spring on the bottom.
Place the OEM top mount onto the new spring and thread the new piston bolt
onto the strut. While the shock and spring are shorter than the OEM pieces,
you still may need to use spring compressors for this step. Tighten this
Now that the shock is fully assembled, feed the unit into the wheel well
while lining up the three top mounting studs to the shock tower.
Back under the hood; reinstall the three nuts holding the top mount to the
Now position the hub in the correct direction and push the lower ball joint
into its mounting location. Tighten the ball joint bolt.
The speed sensor will now be reinstalled. Remember that the sensor will
slide in offset and twist into place before you can insert the allen bolt
to tighten the sensor to the hub.
Re-clip the sensor line to the back of the brake shield.
Make sure the brake pads are in place and slide the brake caliper back into
its correct position on the rotor. Install the two bolts that hold the
caliper to the hub.
Push the tie rod end into its mounting tab on the hub and reinstall the
Re-clip any sensor lines you removed from the strut body.
Now that everything is secure you can reinstall the front wheel.
rear coilover sleeve and hockey tape (for civic) part 2
Part 1 Front Shock is here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W9R13KiDM4
Installing a adjustable coilover sleeve on a Bilstein rear shock for a
honda civic...I use Hockey Tape , it really is the best tape as it doesn't
fall apart with water and dirt like Duct tape or electrical will
Yes i know that ground control sleeve has a inside groove to sit on the
Lowering Springs vs Coilovers -- Presented by Andy's Auto Sport
1 (800) 419-1152
Andy's Auto Sport presents a video about the differences between lowering
springs, coilover sleeve kits, and complete coilover systems, with examples
of each for easy reference. Lowering springs, coilover sleeve kits, and
coilovers are all great ways to improve the looks and performance of your
vehicle, but be sure to buy exactly what you need depending on the type of
driving you will do. From stock replacement parts to high-performance
aftermarket accessories, Andy's Auto Sport has what you need to get the
looks and power your vehicle deserves.
Please feel free to rank our video, share it, or embed it!
How to: Disassemble/re-assemble a strut and test if it's good.
In this video I show how to disassemble and re-assemble a strut and how to
test if the shock absorber is good.
The strut featured in this video is from a 93 Honda Del Sol. The techniques
used in this video is applicable to all 92-95 Honda Civic, 93-95 Honda Del
Sol and possibly other make, model and year struts(also known as a damper).
Coilovers - Explained
What are coilovers? How do coilovers work? Coilovers are a common
performance upgrade for car suspensions. Coilovers can allow for lowering a
vehicle, and also can reduce body roll with stiffer springs. A coilover
gets its name from simply a coil spring over a shock absorber. The
coilovers used in the video are Yonaka Motorsports coilovers for a 94-01
Yonaka Coilovers -
Suspensions - http://youtu.be/jOiOO7qloXQ
Please feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe!
And don't forget to check out my Facebook page:
Also check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in
forums, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your
Now on Twitter:
NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!
How to Install Honda Civic 8th Gen Coilovers
1. To begin, remove the lugs bolts and front rim from the vehicle.
2. Once the wheel is removed from the vehicle, locate the speed sensor and
brake line bracket attached to the strut body. Remove the speed sensor by
pushing in the ends of the clip and pulling outwards.
3. Next, remove the bolt holding the brake line to the strut and set brake
4. You will now be able to remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the
strut to the vehicle's hub. Once the nuts are taken off, slide the bolts
out and pull the hub away from the strut to separate them from one another.
5. You will now need to gain access to the three nuts that hold the
vehicle's shock to the strut tower. Begin by peeling back the weather
stripping by simply pulling up on the end. This is no need to completely
remove the stripping.
6. A small cutout window is removable from the trim in order to get to the
upper strut tower. Simply pull down and then out on this piece to remove.
7. You will now remove the three nuts that hold the strut's top mount to
the shock tower. This will free the shock from the vehicle and you can
remove the unit from the wheel well.
8. The OEM upper strut mount will need to be removed from the stock
suspension as it will be reused with the coilover kit. While using spring
compressors, remove the top nut from the shock to uninstall the top mount
from the strut assembly.
9. To install the front coilover properly you will reuse the vehicle's OEM
upper mount along with the rubber insulator pad. The rubber insulator pad
will simply spin off the top of the spring.
10. Included with the Raceland coilover kit will be a new dust cover and
bump stop that fit to the new shock. It will not be necessary to install
the OEM dust cover or bump stop to the coilover. Remove the OEM bump stop
by pull it away from the top mount.
11. The rubber insulator pad and the dust cover will be a one piece unit.
Using a razor blade or scissors, trim the dust cover away from the rubber
12. This insulator will twist onto the new spring in the same fashion as it
came off the OEM spring.
13. Once the insulator is in place, the top mount will rest on top of this
pad and the unit can now be slid on top of the shock. With the supplied
Raceland nut, tighten the top mount to the coilover and you will be ready
to install back onto the vehicle.
14. With the shock back in the wheel well, align the top mount studs into
the shock tower and reinstall the three nuts that hold the top of the strut
15. Install the trim cut out back into place by placing the bottom in first
and then clipping the top into position.
16. Place the weather stripping back onto the trim and press down to clip
back into place.
17. You will now reattach the strut body to the hub of the vehicle. Lift
the hub into place, slide the two bolts through the mount, and tighten the
nuts to the shock.
18. Reattach the brake line and speed sensor to the coilover. Simply push
the speed sensor's clip into the mount until you hear it click. The brake
line will be reattached to the bracket with the OEM bolt.
19. Reinstall the front wheel and the installation for this corner is now
BMW E30 Strut Housing Shortening Tutorial + Ground Control Coilover Build
This is a video tutorial on how to properly shorten your E30 front strut
housings to allow use of a shorter shock and how to assemble the Ground
Control Coilover Conversion kit once the housings are shortened.
The work was performed on my 1991 BMW 318is and my setup is as follows:
- Ground Control Coilover Conversion Kit - spring rates: 440f/650r
- Bilstein HD front shock inserts for a 325ix model E30
- 82-02 Camaro KYB
Gas-A-Just shock for the rear (not mentioned in video)
This video is just a general outline, your process may vary a bit depending
on what tools, parts or coilover setup you use.
*Work at your own risk. I am not responsible for any injuries or damaged
parts/tools if you decide to follow my tutorial, I am simply providing some
Text from the video:
Step 1: Begin by removing both front strut assemblies (not every step is
shown in this video)
Step 2: Once the strut assembly is out, remove the original top hats,
springs and strut inserts. Use a spring compressor to perform this. Work at
your own risk.
Step 3: Once everything is removed and the strut housing is bare, the next
step is to remove the original spring perch. Use your own preferred method
to do this. In my case, I used an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. Cut
around the top of the weld where the spring perch is welded to the strut
Step 4: Now it is time to cut the strut housing. Again, use your own
preferred method to do so, just make sure the cut is straight and perfectly
perpendicular to the strut tube to ensure that it doesn't have any slight
bends or angles when everything is welded up. Otherwise, camber will be
affected and the strut insert will not slide into the strut housing.
Step 5: Start your first cut just under the weld from the original spring
perch. I used a band saw. I made sure everything was level and
perpendicular and made my first cut.
Step 6: Now that the strut housing is cut into two pieces, it is time to
make the second cut. This cut will determine how much you are shortening
the strut housing by. Measure from where you just cut towards the top of
the housing (threaded section). It is recommended to not cut any more than
2". Make sure you do not cut into the threaded section of the housing. I
cut out 2". Note: The next clip shows what your strut housing should look
like before and after making both cuts. I accidentally have the middle
section flipped, which could cause confusion. This is the section that will
be thrown away anyways.
Step 7: Now you are ready to weld. Prepare the end areas for welding and
use welding magnets to keep everything perfectly positioned. Keep a small
gap between the ends for the new metal to fill. The size of the gap should
be the same size as the thickness of the metal of the strut housing.
Step 8: I would recommend MIG or TIG welding. When MIG welding, incorporate
sheilding gas rather than using flux core wire. This will yeild much
cleaner welds and better control. If you are ill-equipped or not
comfortable with welding, have a professional weld everything up for you.
Start off with a few tack welds and then weld the rest together all the way
Step 8: Once everything is welded up, grind the welds down so they are
flush with the rest of the strut housing. I recommend using an angle
grinder with flap disk.
Step 9: Now it is time to weld on the supplied adjuster perch. Use the
threaded spring adjuster sleeve as a guide. Situate it so that the top of
the adjuster sleeve is flush with the top of the strut housing as it sits
on the perch. Make sure the flat area of the new perch is facing out
towards the wheel. Start off by making a few tack welds and then weld the
rest. Only weld on the bottom of the perch.
Step 10: This is how the strut housings should look once complete. Prep and
paint to desired color. Do not leave any bare metal unpainted, it will rust
Step 11: Once painted, you are ready to assemble the coilovers. Start off
by putting two supplied O-ring's around the top of the strut housing to
ensure a snug fit for the adjuster sleeve. Leave roughly a 1" gap between
O-ring's. Install threaded adjuster sleeve.
Step 12: The next step depends on how much you shortened your housings by
and your strut insert choice. You want to be able to tighten the insert
down snugly with the collar nut. In my case, I had to make a 1.25" spacer
out of metal tubing to achieve this.
Step 13: Once the strut insert is in place, install the collar nut and
tighten it down. You will either need to buy or make a tool to tighten it.
Step 14: Install the spring adjuster followed by the spring itself.
Step 15: After the spring is in place, install the supplied top spring
plate followed by the
original top hat (or whichever top hat you decide to run).
Step 16: Double check to make sure everything is tightened to spec. Now
your new coilovers are complete and ready to install!
Knowledge Base: Front Camber Kits
For more than a decade, Skunk2 has led the industry with its fully
adjustable front camber kits. More enthusiasts choose Skunk2's adjustable
camber kits because of innovations like our anti-slip design, durable
forged ball joints, and an unprecedented amount of camber adjustment. Now
learn about all three kits, including Tuner Series, Pro Series, and Pro
Series Plus, and find out what makes Skunk2 camber kits the best.
HSD Coilovers - High performance road and track coilover systems.
Available from European Distributors for a wide range of performance cars
from www.trackculture.com and www.driftworks.com
The HSD HR coilover is exactly what the performance tuning market has been
crying out for. No longer do you have to accept an inferior/compromised
product when spending less than £1000 on coilover suspension.
The HSD HR has been specced by HSD Europe, for our roads, and tracks, with
the knowledge and experience gained by HSD Europe using the now world
famous Driftworks Control System Coilover made by HSD.
HSD Coilovers use a very well respected and proven Monotube damper design
combined with high quality hardware. This level of quality and performance
is usually found on much more expensive suspension products. This is high
end competition winning suspension available direct from the factory at
The Raceland Review - Del Sol Coilovers
This is a simple review of the Raceland Coilovers for the Honda del Sol. Do
not leave any hateful or disrespectful comments - they will be reported and
Civic EK Project: Racing Stance pt1
This is the start of Rob's Honda Civic Ek. Ksport Coilovers, Enkei 92's,
and Yokohoma S. Drives are the beginning of this race inspired project.
Check out: the music: http://www.facebook.com/injuitjamunit