How To Test Your Car Starter
In this video, you will learn how to test your starter real simple before taking your starter to the auto parts. you will learn all three steps: Solenoid, Motor and Overide Clutch testing. the goal of this video is for you to understand the function of the different elements that make up the starter and to help you diagnose starting problems with a more accurate approach. video done by Jesus Cabrera of Chabot College MCOM 61.
Diagnosing Starter Problems- EricTheCarGuy
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Once again I team up with BBB Industries to bring you the basic steps in starter diagnosis. If you suspect a bad starter you might want to run through these checks before you commit to get a new one, you just may find that you don't need a starter but rather some other issue is causing the no start.
http://www.bbbind.com/
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Click below and Stay Dirty
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Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
How to diagnose a bad starter, ignition, neutral safety switch!
The re are 3 wires or electrodes on all starters. One is the large bolt that is attached to the main positive battery cable. One is the small wire that is sometimes purple that is attached to the ignition switch "key". And one is just a copper wire or electrode that supplies a ground/power to the starter from the solenoid.
Toyota 1990 MR2
JDM 1990 MR2 GT turbo T-Top
Well taken care of, and a true sports car.
The car is a Japanese import, and is right hand drive.
It's a blast to drive and a great sports car for any enthusiast!
$5500.00 OBO
The MR2 has been freshly safetied this year, and is completely DOT compliant. The car is also very clean, never been smoked in, and has no rust ANYWHERE.
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Discovery V8i high idle - part 1 - possible stepper motor problem?
I bought this '94 Disco V8 as a non-runner. The previous owner cooked the engine (3.9 serpentine / cats) and had put in a replacement (3.9 pre-serpentine / non-cat), but hadnt finished installing it. It has the original engine wiring loom and the cats are still in place.
The problem I have is that I cannot get the idle down below c.1100rpm. It failed the MOT emissions test miserably giving 4.25% CO (limit is 3.5% for non-cat, which the analyser noted the car as being). HC was 88, so well within limits.
I have had the plenum chamber off, given it a good clean and sealed back down properly to eliminate air leaks. All vacuum pipes are also fine as far as I can tell. I have tested swapping out the stepper motor, throttle potentiometer and coolant sensor from the original engine, but the only difference is that the replacement engines stepper motor makes it idle just a tad lower than shown in the video at around 1000rpm. I read that idle should ideally be 800-900. Engine has new sparkplugs and new leads.
There is no erratic revving, but when I do rev, it hesitates before rising (timing?) and then takes a while to settle back down once Ive throttle-off as can be seen in the video, the revs drop in stages.
Near the end of the video, I squeezed the bypass pipe (throttle body-rear of plenum) and the revs did seem to drop. I have also tried the trick to get the stepper motor conical core out to clean it, but it would not move. This is making me suspect the stepper, but the doubt I have is whether both steppers could be playing-up?
As I cannot get the idle down, I cannot set the dynamic timing correctly (see my other videos for distributor/oil pump saga).
The video is in 5 parts:
1.Cold start.
2.Warm engine
3.Tour of engine bay
4.Test of squeezing bypass pipe
5.Final look at tacho
Im a bit stuck at the moment. Apart from needing to sort some ABS sensor air gaps, the engine idle and then timing is all I need to do before I can get it down for an MOT again. Any ideas/thoughts greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You can find part 2 of this at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBtXTSwmlgY... there is also now part 3!
AP Engineering PowerFC Problem *CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON*
This is PART 2 from the first PFC problem. Now I got the PFC to work on my car. I used the Datalogit to get my car running. Now the CEL is constantly on due to *THE* sensor. I believe it is caused by the AIT sensor. Here are the things that I checked. I wired it correctly, but still CEL on?? any help here?
- Sensor is good
- Wired it up correctly *Unless its wrong* I triple checked myself too
How to Diagnose Car Battery and Starter Problems
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Use these tips to diagnose car battery and starter problems.
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Step 1: Turn on your ignition
Turn on your ignition if your car engine won't turn over. Listen carefully to any sound produced.
Step 2: Consider a dead battery
Consider the possibility of a dead battery. If trying to start the engine only produces a "click" sound, this may be the case. If you left your car lights on the night before, the battery could have gone dead, and you'll need to have the battery jump-started. If the battery is very old you may have to get a new one.
Tip
Car batteries typically only last 3 to 5 years.
Step 3: Consider a possible alternator problem
Consider a possible alternator problem if turning on the ignition produces a whining sound, but you have a newer battery. If the alternator is bad, it will not charge the battery when you drive the car. You can use jumper cables and another battery to start the car, but the same problem will occur again. Have the alternator checked and replaced if necessary.
Step 4: Consider a possible starter problem
Consider a possible starter problem. If you hear a click when you turn on the ignition and the problem is not due to your battery, the starter's solenoid may have a weak spot inside. If so, the starter will not be able to produce enough current to start your engine, and you will have to have it replaced.
Step 5: Visit a mechanic
Visit a mechanic if you're having trouble determining the sound your car is making. It's always better to be safe than sorry!
Did You Know?
The Oxford Electric Bell, a battery-powered bell at the University of Oxford in England, has been ringing almost continuously since 1840.
1992 Toyota Corolla Starting Issue
I have run into a problem after swapping in a new fuel pump and new distributor. The fuel pump turns on and fuel rail has pressure but it will not stay running for more than a second or two almost sounds like it's 180 degress out of time but the dizzy will only go in one way so I don't think that's it.
Starting from cold - MR2 - 1990 Turbo (For Sale)
Start up from cold (previous use was 2 days ago)
Check out the Defi dials and the noise from the Garage Fukui Departure 2 pro Exhaust (Phoenix Power)
75,600 miles
£1500 ono
PROJECT.STH - A dream reached, MR2
Like us on facebook ! : http://www.facebook.com/#!/Projectsth
PROJECT.STH BLOG: http://projectsth.blogspot.com/
A Dream Reached by Mat T. He finaly bought his dream car, '92 Toyota MR2 GT-S.
Music: Chiddy Bang - Opposite Of Adults
Teriyaki Boyz - Tokyo Drift
TOYOTA STARTER MOTOR, EZ repair (Corolla Celica truck car prizm Vibe camry T100)
July 2012 UPDATE: The parts are now available from several sellers on ebay! Simply search "Toyota starter repair kit" - Jim shows you how to repair your Toyota starter motor. He explains in detail the symptoms and the procedure for a ZERO COST repair. At least 90% of the problems are related to two simple electrical contacts that almost anyone can repair. Do it yourself and save hundreds of dollars! Don't be fooled, these starters are extremely well made and these contacts are typically the ONLY THING that goes bad. Don't buy an expensive "rebuilt starter" when this is all that you need to do to put your car back on the road!
