Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
Blueprint 106 - Cylinder Bore Inspection
We're close to the end of the 100-level series. In this video I show you
how to measure the cylinder bores using 2 different tools. I compare the
results and illustrate what to look for to determine whether or not your
engine is in-spec.
The block I'm using is a 6-bolt turbo
4g63 from early '92. It has 150,000 miles and this video also serves as a
testimony for the durability of Mitsubishi's cast-iron solid-decked Sirius
I engines. This engine will be cut for a new set of pistons, so these
measurements are needed to determine what size pistons I need to get.
.030" is as far overbored as you should ever take a 4g63. Boring larger
than that will take too much off the side clearances between the cylinder
walls and result in compromised strength from hot spots. The only time
you'll ever need to cut a bigger hole is when an imperfection prevents you
from using the pistons you have, or if you're changing to a larger piston.
If you cut the block to its service limit, you have no room to fix an
imperfection should one develop... so it's best to cut as little as you can
get away with. Boring a cylinder .020" over does not significantly
increase its displacement.
CAT Engine Teardown TimeLapse
I filmed this teardown for RedUmbrella Group last year. The CAT diesel
engine had a million miles on it, always running Delo Oil, and was in
perfect condition upon inspection. Sindall Transportation in New Holland,
PA did the disassembly.
music by: Booker T. & the MG's
Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder
head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many
variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from
your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even
disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it
if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port
sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and
different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a
6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from
that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are
all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port
modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g
head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a
1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil
DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair
This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have
a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than
$40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold
type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a
peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with
only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer
explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its
operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you
don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your
expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't
be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't
try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you
open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can
throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally
cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to
know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even
greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to
help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used
parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap,
demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't
even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and
how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new
set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good
Marios Eclipse GSX 400HP ST2 project
HEY HOWS IT GOING, IV BEEN BUILDING THIS CAR OVER THE LAST YEAR AND AM
PLANNING TO RACE IT NEXT SEASON IN THE NASA ST2 CLASS. I USED TO HAVE MY
PRO LICENSE ROADRACING STREETBIKES BUT BROKE MY NECK A LITTLE OVER 5 YEARS
AGO NOW SO IM NOW A C5-C6 QUADRIPLEGIC. SO I BASICALLY JUST PREMATURELY
GRADUATED FROM 2 WHEELS TO 4... LOL
THE CAR SHOULD BE PRETTY FUN ONCE I GET A NEW TRANNY FOR IT IT WILL DO
PRETTY WELL I THINK.
ILL POST MORE THROUGH OUT THE SEASON.
CHECK OUT MY BLOG AT KEEPEMSPINNINRACING.BLOGSPOT.COM
THANKS FOR WATCHING AND GOD BLESS.
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
2g 7-bolt 4g63 Engine Removal & Disassembly
Tearing down the GSX to see what broke, and what I need to buy. Sitting
for a year and letting the battery drain took a toll on the polished
finish... and it looks like a piece of 4th gear wanted to take a look at
the outside world. Holy transmission case, and it's off to TRE to see
what's salvageable. Looks like the clutch could stand to be replaced, too.
Timing belt has taken some abuse from the higher rev limit and I was
expecting that. EGT probe is fried and I don't even care. Since I'm
running DSMlink and can log Boost,
I'm removing all my gauges anyway. Front case seal (freeze plug) is
leaking a tad, and the crank seal shows signs of excessive crankcase
pressure. I'm going to make some changes... I've got a lot of other
tricks up my sleeve, so stay tuned.
Pulling the GSX motor (1080 HD)
I've done this video before. Not in HD, but this time I'm leaving you
without an audio track to drown out what I'm doing. In previous videos I
removed the transmission separately. Not this time. This is how you pick
it out in one piece. No subtitles to read or block the view. Those of you
looking for granular info about this video will find it here.
In order to remove a 4g63 AWD drivetrain, you'll need to disconnect the
following components... not necessarily in this order... and my car isn't
exactly stock, but this is what you're after. Some things you can leave
connected, especially if they're stock, but I removed them for safety
reasons and because I routed some modified items differently. The timeline
is listed here for your convenience.
[off-camera] Remove the battery and support the car on jackstands.
1:14 Drain oil
1:20 Drain gear oil, ATF if you're an automatic.
1:28 remove radiator cap
1:31 Drain coolant
1:34 Remove radiator brackets, and coolant overflow system
1:40 Remove breather hoses.
1:42 Remove intake pipe
1:44 Remove throttle linkage bracket from intake manifold
1:50 Disconnect the fuel rail
1:54 Remove upper Intercooler
1:58 Remove upper and lower radiator hoses
2:02 Remove coil-on-plug plate [if equipped] to prevent damage.
2:07 Remove cruise control motor [if equipped] for clearance
2:13 Remove catch can
2:15 Remove throttle linkage from throttle body
2:18 Remove the hood
2:25 un-bolt cruise control linkage box [if equipped]
2:29 un-bolt AC hose from fender
2:31 Remove power steering bracket (5 bolts and it free's up the pump*)
*leave the pump connected.
2:40 Remove Dynatek ARC-2 ignition amplifier box [if equipped]
2:46 Un-plug injectors, cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, AC harness,
transistor pack, knock sensor, coil pack harness, TPS sensor, idle switch
[if equipped], MAP sensor harness, o2 sensor harness, alternator connector,
charge wire, oil pressure sensors, power steering switch and radiator fans
2:54 Remove power steering cooler brackets if they're in your way.
2:57 Remove radiator
3:00 Remove lowest coolant hose [in my case the turbo fitting] so the rest of the coolant will
3:03 Remove coolant sensor wires and fan switch
3:06 Remove external oil cooler lines [if equipped]
3:16 Remove turbo oil feed line at
lowest point so the rest of the oil drains.
3:20 Remove transmission linkage
3:25 Remove shifter cables from bracket
3:29 Remove clutch slave and zip-tie it so it doesn't come apart and leak.
3:36 Remove downpipe flange bolts and gasket
3:42 Remove wheels, and axles*.
* Watch my transmission series for detailed info on this process if you get
** Put all the suspension stuff back together so you can put the car down.
*** Put the washer and axle nuts back on the axles after removing them.
5:00 Loosen the alternator belt [and AC belt if equipped]
5:04 Remove the crank pulley for clearance
5:09 Remove the transfer case
5:27 Remove the starter bolts and stuff the starter out of your way*.
*note the ground wire.
5:37 Remove the heater hoses
5:48 Attach your engine hoist brackets... DON'T LOSE THESE THINGS if you
remove them like I do.
6:19 Protect your valve cover from damage with the chains and hoist.
6:31 Remove the three lower bracket bolts from the rear roll-stop mount
6:49 Remove all the bolts from the front roll-stop mount
6:54 Remove the lower crossmember and torque plate
7:06 Put the wheels back on and put the car on the ground.
7:25 Connect the hoist and put tension on it to support the engine's
7:35 Remove the transmission mount
7:43 Remove the transmission mount bracket
7:46 Remove the reverse switch to prevent damaging it
7:52 Remove the timing-side engine mount.
8:03 Slightly lower the engine and remove the vacuum lines and brake Booster hose from the back of the
8:12 Remove the ground wire from the back of the motor
8:17 Remove the last thing you overlooked.
8:30 Remove the engine and transmission in one piece.
The crank pulley, transmission mount bracket, and reverse switch removal
allows you more wiggle room without damaging either those parts or
scratching up the chassis. The trans mount bracket loves to get caught on
the passenger-side brake lines. The speed sensor is protected by the rear
motor mount bracket, so you can leave it in place.
I replaced my AC compressor during the transmission replacement, but never
charged the system. If you have working AC, un-bolt the compressor and
hang it from a bolt on the firewall using heavy-gauge wire. That way you
don't have to evacuate the refrigerant and drive up the cost of repairing
your car with an AC service, filter-drier and expansion tube. Don't let it
hang from the lines because they can leak or even break.
1998 Civic Engine Tear Down (Part 4) - EricTheCarGuy
Link to full engine R&R video:
Remember this guy? Yep since I'm moving I had my scrap picked up and this
was still in the shop collecting dust so I decided to do the tear down on
it, I'm glad I did because I got a nice little keepsake out of it. BTW
don't yell at me for using my impact lets face it, this engine is scrap!
Click below and Stay Dirty
Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com
Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum
Visit my Facebook Page:
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
Blueprint 101 - Using Micrometers, Calipers, & Bore Gauges
If you're going to rebuild an engine, this video is required material.
None of your measurements mean anything if they're not accurate. I
illustrate the calibration and use of 3 major tools needed for taking
measurements, and a brief demonstration of how they work. These are by no
means the ONLY ways to use or calibrate these tools. This is simply the
method I will employ to measure parts in later videos so this instruction
doesn't distract from their intended messages. Even if you're familiar
with these tools, you may find something useful here, or even be able to
correct me and my rusty skills.
Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has it's rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
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