Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2010 Toyota RAV4 - etrailer.com
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2010 Toyota RAV4 we are going to install part number 118412
from Tow Ready. The first thing we need to do is get into the back of the
vehicle so we can get access to our tail light harness. To begin our
install we are going to have to remove some interior panels. We can fold
this up out of the way. Now we want to get to this rear threshold and we
want to remove that because we will be running a wire all the way across.
We will use a trim panel tool to remove the rivets. Lets remove this access
cover and next we need to remove this whole panel. We do not actually have
to remove it but what we are going to do is pull it out so it is easier to
slip the wires from back here out the other side. We need to remove this
tie down point and this screw. Pop it loose. We are going to leave that
alone for now and go over to the passenger side and do the same thing
We are going to lay out our harness. We are going to point out that the
yellow and brown are going to the left side of the vehicle and the red and
green will go to the right side of the vehicle. We will start with the left
side. What we are going to do is take the wire harness and the module and
we are going to tuck it in the access hole for now. Leave the 4-pole wire
harness hanging out. We are going to make our connection to the tail light
assembly with this part of the T-One Connector with the yellow and brown
wires. Our connection point is back up in here into the back of the tail
light itself. You want to take it apart, there is a little tab that you
have to feel for and push down on it and it comes apart. You should have a
matching end like that. This part here will go back into the tail light.
We will run the black wire that comes with the kit up to the battery. What
I think we will do is pop out this grommet right back behind here, poke a
hole through this rubber grommet. We are going to use a pocket knife and
make a slit in it. It is kind of thick in the middle so we will take a few
tries at it. Give it a quick test fit and that will work just fine. We are
going to take our wire and run it through the hole and then pull it out the
bottom and take up all the slack. We have got our grommet still on here so
push it down and push it back into place. With the two wires we are going
to connect the two together using the supplied butt connector. Just tuck
that out of the way too. The next thing we will do is route our wire up to
the battery. What we did is we came down from the inside of the body work
and just follow the factory wiring harness. Then there is a tube of the
subframe assembly for the suspension components we just push it right down
the tube. It came all the way out down here and came out above the gas tank
and behind the shield and then we are up to the front suspension components
and we just push the rest of the wire up into the engine compartment and
from there we will reach down and pull the wires out. 06:21
When we pull the wires up make sure it is not dragging against anything
that will be moving like the suspension components or steering linkage.
Pull it up the way we want it and then we will probably tie it off to the
factory harness right here. Next we will route this wire any way we see fit
and we will run over to the positive side of the battery. We will cut our
wire to the length that we want. Then on to that we will add the fuse
holder which is this part right here. All we have got to do is cut the wire
in half and we are going to install a butt connector on one side and a ring
terminal on the other. Go back to the black wire. We are going to add it to
the positive terminal right here. We can use this nut right here on this
post and it will work just fine. Next we will remove our negative terminal
before we work on our battery that way we do not get any unwanted sparks.
Add a ring terminal to the positive side and then tighten it back down.
Slip the cover back into place and then we will reattach the ground
terminal. Lets add the fuse to the fuse holder and then we will be done
with our install. Now we have got our wire harness ready and we will show
you how to use it. Since it is on the inside what you need to do is just
pull it out just a little bit and we can shut our door on it. The door seal
is so thick that it will not hurt the wire when you close the door on it.
At that point you can still pull out what you need to reach your trailer
wiring. When we are not using it we can hide the whole harness inside the
access panel. It is safe and out of the way and you do not have to worry
about it sitting outside and getting corroded in the elements. With that,
that will finish our install of part number 118412 from Tow Ready.
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Navigation upgrade for a 2010 Toyota RAV4. Integrating an Alpine
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Alpine KTX-RV48 Perfect Fit Kit for Toyota RAV4
Installing the Wireless Color Monitor & Back-Up Camera System
One of the biggest obstacles to child safety is in the family driveway and
most people use it every day. Drivers of family vehicles cause accidents
that kill or injure more than 50 children each week -- and almost 50*
children lost their lives this year in what are called backover and
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However, the new Audiovox Do-It-Yourself Wireless Color Monitor and Back-Up
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Here's the best news of all - virtually anyone can install the ACA250!
Audiovox created this wireless monitor and back-up camera system to be
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Watch this video to see how you can install the ACA250 in a vehicle. If you
have any questions, please feel free to contact us. And for more
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friends at KIDS AND CARS at kidsandcars.org.
How to Install a Backup Camera
In this video, I demonstrate, step by step, how to install and wire in a
backup camera. On this vehicle, we wired the backup camera to display in
the DVD player stereo deck, but I also include steps and procedures if you
are going to use the small display that typically comes with the kit.
I am not responsible for any mishaps that may have occurred from following
these procedures. I do this to help you, the car owner, and cannot assume
responsibility for any problems. Please use this information to help
yourself, good luck, and take care.
2011 Toyota RAV4 Part2
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in Quincy, IL 62305
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Toyota RAV4 SUV 2006 - 2012 review - CarBuyer
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Modern crossover vehicles like the Nissan Qashqai and Volkswagen Tiguan are
family cars first and foremost, but still retain some of the looks and
off-road capabilities of a 4x4. The Toyota RAV4 is the other way around;
it's a 4x4 firstly, but Toyota has adapted it to compete with the popular
breed of crossovers.
2011 Toyota RAV4 vs Subaru Forester muddy mashup review
( http://www.TFLcar.com ) The 2011 Toyota RAV4 and the 2011 Subaru Forester
2.5XT turbo both cost about 30K , both
can seat five people and both can go off-road with their very capable all
wheel drive set up. But which one of these two competing new crossover's is
the better buy? That's the question we try to answer in this off-road
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2015 Toyota RAV4 Start Up and Review 2.5 L 4-Cylinder
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Camerons Car Reviews Score: 4.5/5
Powertrain Options: 2.5 L 4-Cylinder with a 6-Speed Automatic FWD or AWD
Engine & Performance
BASE ENGINE SIZE 2.5 L CAM TYPE Double overhead cam (DOHC)
CYLINDERS Inline 4
VALVE TIMING Variable
TORQUE 172 ft-lbs. @ 4100 rpm
horsepower 176 hp
@ 6000 rpm
TURNING CIRCLE 34.8 ft.
Weights and Capacities
MAXIMUM TOWING CAPACITY** 1500 lbs. MAXIMUM PAYLOAD** 1020 lbs.
EPA INTERIOR VOLUME 139.1 cu.ft. GROSS WEIGHT 4485 lbs.
CURB WEIGHT 3465 lbs.
ANGLE OF APPROACH 29 degrees
ANGLE OF DEPARTURE 22 degrees
CARGO CAPACITY, ALL SEATS IN PLACE 38.4 cu.ft.
MAXIMUM CARGO CAPACITY 73.4 cu.ft.
ENGINE TYPE Gas
FUEL TYPE Regular unleaded
FUEL TANK CAPACITY 15.9 gal.
RANGE IN MILES (CTY/HWY) 381.6/492.9 mi.
EPA MILEAGE EST. (CTY/HWY) 24/31 mpg
Competitors: Ford Escape, Hyundai Tucson, Kia Sportage, Honda CR-V
Introducing the Magellan GPS Wireless Back-Up Camera
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