Coolant Pressure / "Head Gasket" Test on a 6.0L Powerstroke
***PLEASE READ THIS!***
This test can help determine if your 6.0L (or any other engine really) has a blown head gasket. However, on a 6.0L it can also help determine OTHER issues as well, such as a bad EGR cooler, or in my case - it lead to diagnosing a bad OIL cooler!
In order to distinguish between a head gasket and an EGR issue, you have to take into account OTHER symptoms, such as coolant loss, smoke, and oil condition.
Overall PRESSURE is really NOT the problem! It's how QUICKLY it gets there! Your ove, this is NORMAL - especially if pulling a trailer or climbing a long grade. Overall pressure can climb to 15+psi simply due to combination of a full or overfilled system, and high (but normal) coolant temperature. Too much temperature and you will overpressure the system and overheat if you push it far enough!
More videos to come!
How to Test Head Gasket
** Please see my other videos on this topic* Thx!
This video is intended for those who would like to know how to confirm a
damaged head gasket on a vehicle prior to making the decision to invest a
lot of money for repair. My apologies for the camera focus- next video I
will pay closer attention, but the information needed is viewable. Further
research should be done on the risks of overheating to the engine block and
such. This video is meant to simply show a 'how to' on the test method I
used quite often when professionally working on vehicles, the results of
which are based on chemistry and industry-standards of the time (1990's).
I hope you find this video useful. RI.
How to change a Subaru Head Gasket without removing the engine
These are the sets I like to use on these EJ25 engines.
1:07 Identifying engine type
1:25 Inspection showing oil leak from head gasket
3:12 Remove air intake (discussed)
3:35 Remove battery (discussed)
4:00 Remove air compressor (discussed)
4:10 With above removed and belt covers removed
4:20 Remove belts
5:49 Remove A/C compressor tensioner bracker
7:00 Remove alternator
8:50 Remove air compressor (discussed)
8:56 Drain radiator
10:10 Remove power brake Booster
vacuum line, fuel lines
11:48 Disconnect spark plug wires/brackets
13:42 Remove A/C compressor
14:15 Remove spark plugs/bracket
15:02 Disconnect oil sending unit wire, coolant temp sending unit, crack
shaft position sensor wire
15:50 Remove radiator
How to change a Subaru Head Gasket without removing the engine
Replace a Cylinder Head Gasket Yourself and do it RIGHT! Part 1
Thoroughly detailed video on replacing your head gasket on any vehicle-
though a Toyota 2.2L is used in the example. Includes measuring warpage
specifications, special tools needed, proper techniques, and options to
consider such as machine shop services, used vs new cylinder heads, and
Part 2 is here:
You might also be interested in head gasket diagnosis video:
Engine coolant system and compression testing
There are lots of ways to diagnose a head gasket or to check the general
health of an engine, but this video is focusing on 3 major systems.
1) The coolant system
2) The combustion chamber
3) The valvetrain
COOLANT SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST:
The boiling point of water (coolant) RISES under pressure. It's imperative
that the coolant system has NO AIR in it, no leaks, a known-good
thermostat, and a good radiator cap in order to function properly. If the
pressure stamped on your radiator cap is not being achieved, Boyle's law is
not taking affect, and your coolant will boil when the car is being driven
at it's normal operating temperature, and may exhibit signs of a blown head
gasket. Many have cursed the process of burping all the air out, sometimes
even taking several days and heat cycles to complete the process.
The point of a compression test is to diagnose the health of each
combustion chamber. A compression test is a crude test to determine if a
ring, valve seal, valve, or a head gasket problem exists. It will show
immediately in this test because the gauge will not rise to the pressure
specified for your engine. There are 3 numbers you need regarding your
High limit, Low Limit and Range.
The high limit is specified by your car's manufacturer and reflects the
equipment they used to build the engine. If you EXCEED the high limit,
chances are it's caused by excessive carbon build-up, and a Seafoam or MCCC
treatment will usually remove the carbon and return it to an acceptable
value. If that build-up isn't caused by cheap gas, then it's likely the
car has an EGR problem or excessive oil blow-by leading to this situation.
The Low Limit represents the point in which the combustion chamber is not
able to compress the engine's specified fuel to the point where it can
ignite it. Gasoline and air need to be compressed together in order for
the energy stored in that fuel to be released. If it isn't achieved, it
will only burn, and not explode. Lower-than-Low Limit pressure means it's
time to rebuild the engine because one of the sealing components in the
combustion chamber has failed or is in need of servicing. Either way, it's
expensive because working on the combustion chamber requires extensive
disassembly or unusual tools that the average mechanic doesn't have.
Range specifies how many PSI of variance there can be between ALL of your
compression numbers. If there's a large variance on one cylinder, then the
engine will not run smoothly. If a cylinder is below spec, it may feel
like a misfire even though the plug is getting spark. If all the values
are close, the engine idles and revs more smoothly.
Aftermarket cams, pistons, head gaskets or machining will affect the
results of your tests. A higher compression piston or thinner head gasket
can raise the compression numbers slightly. A thicker head gasket or
longer-duration cams will lower compression slightly. I don't know how to
determine exact numbers because I'm not an engineer, but you should
remember that during testing if your engine is modified.
So in a nutshell, you want your numbers to be close and between the high
and low limits. If a test fails, the only way to determine WHAT failed is
to perform a leakdown test. Modifications to the factory internals or
machining WILL change the OEM compression limit values, but NOT the range
I'm not using a real leakdown tester in this video. A real leakdown tester
has a regulator, a pressure gauge, a restrictor, and another pressure
gauge. You measure the value of the post-restrictor gauge vs. the
regulated supply and mark the percentage of pressure-drop. As a general
rule, most cars are healthy around a 20% value. Race engines should be
between 1-10% for highest performance.
I'm using the ghetto method for this test. Get the piston roughly at Top
Dead Center, apply air pressure, fine tune TDC for that piston by turning
the crank with a wrench to see if you can stop all of the airflow. Listen
to the intake for leaking air to determine if there's a bad intake valve.
Listen to the tailpipe for leaking Exhaust valves. If neither are leaking, but air
is still flowing, remove the tool and pour a cap of oil into the spark plug
hole so that it coats the rings to make a better seal. After oiling,
re-install the tool and repeat the test to see if you get better results.
If you do, you have bad rings. If you don't, you have bad valve stem
seals, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head. If you have a cracked head
or bad head gasket, then there will likely be pressure venting through your
coolant system. Taking off the radiator cap and watching for air rising to
the filler neck will point you in the right direction.
How To Replace The Head Gasket and Intake Manifold Gaskets On A GM 3800 Engine
In this walkthrough I replace the head gaskets, upper intake manifold (UIM)
gaskets, and lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets on a 1997 pontiac
bonneville. These steps will be identical for almost any GM 3800 / 3400 /
3100 series II motor.
If you have any questions feel free to post them on the video and I'll do
my best to try to help!
Here is a link to the the text walkthrough I used as a guide for making
Also here's a list of torque specs for most of the motor:
Camshaft Bolt: 74 ft/lbs + 90 degrees angle torque
Camshaft thrust plate: 132 in/lbs (T30 torx)
Front cover bolts: 15 ft/lbs + 40 degrees angle torque
Oil pan bolts: 125 in/lbs
Crank sensor nuts: 18 ft/lbs
Camshaft sensor bolts 48 in/lbs
Lifter hold-downs: 22 ft/lbs
Rocker bolts: 11 ft/lbs(132in/lbs) + 90 degrees angle torque
Lower intake bolts: 132 in/lbs
Supercharger bolts: 17ft/lbs
Crank Bolt: 111 ft/lbs + 76 degrees angle torque up to 10/98
111 ft/lbs +114 degrees angle torque 10/98 and up
Cylinder head bolts: 37 ft/lbs + 130 degrees + 30 degrees up to 10/98
37 ft/lbs + 120 degrees
Flywheel/flexplate bolts: 132 in/lbs + 50 degrees
Exhaust manifolds: stud/nuts 132
Nuts 156 in/lbs
Oil filter adapter to timing cover: 22 ft/lbs 97 earlier
132 in/lbs + 50 degrees 97 and later Oil pump
Cover to timing cover: 98 in/lbs
Pick up tube and screen: 132 in/lbs
Valve cover bolts: 89 in/lbs
Tstat bolts: 21 ft/lbs
Water Pump: 132 in/lbs + 80 degrees
Water pump pulley: 115 in/lbs
Throttle body: 84-89 in/lbs
Fuel rail nuts: 75-84 in/lbs
6.0L egr cooler/oil cooler replacement
my buddy picked this truck up for 5000 knowing it had problems so we are
just changing the oil and egr coolers and capping off the end of the egr
cooler so the Exhaust doesnt heat up
the coolant. he is going to try to get a few months out if it like this
then do the bulletproofing with studs and gaskets and probably new heads
and Exhaust but for now he needs the
truck running so he can finish up the season. it is quite a job but with a
hand full of hand tools and a pop crate to stand on you can just take your
time with it and get it done yourself then we cheeched! thanks for
1986 F-250 6.9L IDI Diesel Injection Pump Replacement (Repair Part 2)
After replacing the injectors (and the return lines), it still smoked white
constantly. Timing made very little difference, as well as replacing the
valve at the top front of the injection pump. So, here we are, replacing
the injection pump! This truck sat for 3 or 4 years, which is probably why
the injection pump no longer operated correctly. Before it ran at all I had
to get the fuel cut off assembly unstuck, so the rest of the old pump is
probably gummed up badly.