Bimmertools 3-Series Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool
In this video, you see the Bimmertools.com BMW 3-Series control arm bushing puller plate being used with a standard 2-Jaw puller and a cordless impact wrench. The impact wrench can be substituted for a manual ratchet/socket or a wrench.
The plate slides over the most BMW 3-Series front control arms, presses against the back of the bushing, and slides it off effortlessly. The secret is the direct pressure on the inner metal race of the bushing, not transmitting force through the rubber portion of the bushing.
Note - the plate has two sides - one side has a recessed center to fit over stock bushings, and the other is flat for many aftermarket versions. The bushing being removed here is aftermarket, so the flat side of the plate is used to apply force.
This is our exclusive tool. $24.95 - puller not included.
Click here to order: http://www.bimmertools.com/Bimmertools-3-Series-CA-Bushing-Puller-Plate-p/fcabplate.htm
Control Arm Jig Assembly
At Jeff Lilly Restorations we specialize in building Hot Rods and Auto
Restoration of all makes and models. View our channel for more technique
Part 1- Replacing control arms in a BMW 3 series or MINI
PART 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsUUSp2xEos
PART 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47UbYE3tExM
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm
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In this two part video series Otto will show you how to replace front
control arms and control arm bushings on a typical BMW 3-series 84-05 and
MINI. Note that while these procedures are shown on an E30 3-series (84-91)
BMW, they can also be applied to the E36 3-Series (92-98), E46 3-series
(99-05) and MINI models. Of the 3-series and MINI models listed, some will
look slightly different or have slightly different hardware but, the basic
points and procedures are the same.
Part one - Control arm and bushing removal steps
In this video we will remove the front control arm and control arm bushing
on a BMW 3-series (and MINI). Part-2 covers the installation.
For a list of the parts and tools used, see the accompanying BLOG post at:
1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front
wheels are off the ground.
2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
3) If the swaybar end link is connected to the control arm (as on this E30
and most E36 3-series), remove the nut from the underside of the control
arm, that secures the end link bracket to the control arm.
4) Release the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on
the top of the ball joint's tapered pin, but do not fully remove it. Using
a 2 lb to 3 lb short handled sledgehammer (properly called, a drilling
hammer), give the knuckle area a series of sharp-forceful blows. If the
ball joint's tapered pin does not release from the knuckle, try using a
pry-bar to provide downward pressure on the end of the control arm ....
while hitting the knuckle with the hammer. This can take a good series of
multiple HARD blows with the hammer. If the tapered pin is still not
releasing, you will have to resort to a "pickle-fork". Insert the
pickle-fork between the ball joint and the knuckle and use the hammer to
force the pickle-fork between the two parts. If you get the pickle fork as
far as it will go and the joint is still not separating, try repeating the
blows to the knuckle (as in the first sequence), with the pickle-fork in
NOTE: Never use a pickle-fork to separate the ball joints if you intend to
reuse the control arm (and ball joints), as the fork will typically tear
the ball joint's rubber boot.
5) Release the inner ball joint in a similar fashion to the outer ball
joint, with the exception that you will be hitting the cast area of the
control arm, where the ball-joint mounts into the arm. Note that it may be
necessary to resort to the pickle-fork due to a lack of area to use the
hammer, as a first course of action.
6) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two
bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall
relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame
rail, for the future re-installation.
7) Fully remove the nuts on the ball joints and lower the control arm and
bushing assembly from the vehicle.
NOTE: If you are re-using the control arm bushing mounting brackets and
installing new bushings in the brackets, follow steps 8-10. If you are
installing pre-assembled bushing and bracket assemblies, skip to step 11.
8) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing
and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin.
9) Using a hydraulic press, press the bushing out of the bushing mount
10) Using a hydraulic press, press the new bushing into the mount bracket.
Note if there are any alignment marks to tend with. The new bushing will
either install in the same manner as the old original bushing (alignment
marks, etc.), or it will come with an installation sheet outlining the
Now, click on to Part-2 and continue with the installation of the new
control arm and bushing assemblies.
All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store,
http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also
welcome to e-mail us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call into our headquarters and
speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to
9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).
■BMW 3 Series Production BMW Munich Plant Full HD 1080i
BMW 3 Series Production
BMW 3 Series Production BMW Munich Plant Full HD 1080i
homemade press , Pressing in control arm bushings
Homemade Hydraulic shop press with 20 ton jack. Pressing in energy
suspension bushings and progress spherical bearings on honda civic lower
control arms. 2x2" square steel 1/4" thick. The outside dimensions are
about 21" tall x 18" wide. updates below.
- The most difficult part in making this frame with single top and bottom
tube is you have to make sure the top and bottom square tubes is absolutely
parallel to each other. Not only from side to side but from front and back.
This is a little difficult , if you are welding , make tacks then check and
adjust if necessary. If the tubes is not parallel then the part will try to
come out when the force is applied. This is why the single top tube is not
so great idea or if you look at a real press it has 2 tubes at the base
where the part sits.
- If all you have is 1/16 thick tube it will work with most bushings but
you need to protect the top tube with a plate(i write about that below)
- If you make this , try to protect the top bar by using a plate, you can
see I have the black plate tied to the top tube , if you do not use a thick
plate here to spread the load you can easily damage the top bar, if you
look at the orange frame in the background you can see how that one is
damaged. If you are pressing in some soft or easy bushings then you do not
need that part but if you are pressing in something difficult that requires
a lot of force then use something to protect the top.
Wood press - there is a video on youtube about a wood press pressing in a
wheel bearing it is amazing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krbrm1bN-Mg I
tried wood to press out control arm bushings but they were so tight and the
whole frame flexed so it did not work for me but maybe you can make it
Honda Accord Sway Bar Bushings Replacement
A fastener by fastener tutorial for replacing the sway bar end bushings and
frame bushings on 94-97 Accords.
The common symptom of a failed sway bar bushing is a clunk or knocking
sound when going over bumps.
When one or more of the donut bushings crack metal to metal contact between
the sway bar and the lower control arm occurs which causes the noise.
For 1994-1997 Accords the bushings are sold separately and are Honda part
number 51314-SM4-020. You will need a total of 8 (4 per side).
In the video I say you can use penetrating oil on the frame bushings to
make them slide on easier. I misspoke. Do NOT use petroleum based
lubricants (such as penetrating oil) on the rubber and only use silicone
based lubricants. Petroleum based lubes will harm the rubber silicone
Intro and outro music by Kevin Macleod (Incompetech.com).
Superflex Radius Arms
Superflex Radius Arms are the most revolutionary design in suspension in
many years, by simply bolting them on they will give you twice the flex
over any other radius arm on the market for much the same price, even
cheaper than some of the others.
Available for Patrols and Landcruisers - check them out at
BMW Control Arm Bushing Replacement
View this BMW Repair Tech Tip - follow this link:
This video explains how to replace front control arm bushings on your BMW
E30, E36, or E46 3-series that is experiencing control arm bushing failure.
The vehicle that these are being replaced on is an E46 330ci, but the
procedure is the same for the E30 and E36 3-series. This particular E46
had 62,000 Miles on it at the time of this replacement.
How to replace e36 trailing arm bushings without special tools (and installing POWERFLEX bushings)
Another diy video of me this time i am replacing one of my rtabs with
powerflex bushings. No special tools necessary although having an impact
wrench helps. Tools needed are: 10mm socket, 18mm socket, 17mm socket,
breaker bar, drill, 18mm wrench or 3/4 , hammer, flat head screw driver,
copper anti seize $1.50. Since you will be under the car, take necessary
precautions and wear eye protection when marking the bolt location. They
are dirty! I did not video myself hammering away but i did show the proper
way to hammer the bushing out. Enjoy and goodluck!