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Price: $79.99
-The Tommyzees coil spring compressor, the name that stands for quality.
-My only job is vintage Mustangs and Fords, I am not a Johnny Come Lately Ebay seller who copied some one else\'s product. I will be here to answer any tech question regarding the use of this spring compressor for years to come.
-The original.
-Made in the USA!!
-Thousands sold in 30 years.
-Often imitated, never duplicated.
-The original, don\'t settle for cheap imitations.
-3/8\" thick x 3 1/2\" x 1 1/2\" heavy duty top plate to spread the load out. A 1/8\" thick SAE hardened washer is welded on top of the plate to prevent wear. (DO NOT SETTLE FOR A CHEAP 1/4\' THICK TOP PLATE!!)
-Super heavy duty design, this is the last spring compressor you will buy.
-Do not settle for an un-safe design.
-3/4\" Acme threaded rod.
-Free Thrust Bearing-
Here is a real problem solver when you are trying to do front suspension work: This is a front coilspring compressor used to remove and install front coil springs in \'64-\'70 Mustangs, and \'69-\'77 Mavericks and their Mercury counterpart Comets. WILL NOT WORK ON\'62-\'65 Fairlanes. It is made out of heavy gauge steel .120\" WALL SQUARE TUBING. Pipe is not a structural material and should not be used for something this critical. This is MIG welded personally by myself, a certified welder. It works by lowering the tool through the hole on top of the shock tower, the lower part of the tool is attached to the lower spring saddle, and the upper shock tower mount is bolted back on to the shock tower. The flat plate is bolted to the shock mount, and the washer and nut are threaded on to the tool. The nut is turned clockwise to compress the spring about 3\". With the spring compressed, the spring saddle is un-bolted from the upper control arm and the upper control arm is unbolted from the shock tower. Thenut is then turned counter clockwise to release the tension on the spring. Installation is the opposite of the above. I personally build and weld each and every one of these compressors in my fabrication shop, and I have been building them for at least 30 years and I have soldthousands to satisfied customers. This is a very safe and in-expensive compressor to use.
Kkkk
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Spring Compressor Instructions
-Please lubricate the threaded rod and nut with motor oil, NOT WD-40!!!
-The flat plate is for Mustang and Cougar applications only.
-The flat plate is drilled for early (’64-’66) and late (’67-’70) Mustang bolt patterns, it is not mis-drilled.
1. After safely supporting the vehicle on jackstands, remove the front shocks.
2. Slide spring compressor down through the shock tower (threaded rod portion up) and attach it to the lower spring seat just as you would the lower part of the shock. Install the flat washers on the studs before the nuts, so they will not pull through the spring seat. You can now re-install the stock upper shock mount and bolt it to the shock tower using the original hardware.
3. If you are working on a vehicle that uses a stud on the upper portion of the shock, you can omit this next step and simply install the large washer and nut over the stock shock mount. For Mustangs/Cougars that use two bolts to attach the upper part of the shock, slide the flat plate over the threaded rod and bolt it to the shock mount with the original shock hardware. Install the washer and nut on the rod and tighten until the nut touches the washer. (lubricate the nut and washer with motor oil for easier turning)
If you opted for the thrust bearing option, it installs on top of the flat plate (Mustangs/Cougars/Mavericks), or on the stock shock mount (Falcons/Novas/Fairlanes) at this step:
This is the Mustang/Cougar plate without the thrust bearing:
This is the Mustang/Cougar plate with the thrust bearing installed:
This is the Falcon-Nova-Fairlane installation using the stock upper shock mount:
This is the Falcon-Nova-Fairlane installation with the thrust bearing installed:
4. Begin turning the nut clockwise. As the nut turns, it will begin to draw the spring up towards the top of the shock tower. You only need to compress the spring enough to be able to unbolt the lower spring seat from the control arm. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO COMPERSS THE SPRING COMPLETELY!!!
5. With the spring compressed approximately 3-4 inches, you can now unbolt the spring seat from the A arm. You will now need to remove and the A arm retaining nuts from inside the engine compartment. You do not need to remove the A-arm from the spindle as you can rotate it out of the way. If you are having trouble removing the A arm, the spring may need to be compressed slightly more.
6. Once the A arm is removed, you can now slowly release the tension on the spring by loosening the 5/8” nut. Reassembly is the exact opposite.
-I can be reached at [phone removed by eBay] for help. Tom
-Useage Tips:
-When re-installing the spring, align the studs on the spring seat parallel to the frame rails to make installation on the A arm easier
-On reassembly, when the A arm is re-installed on the car, leave the studs loose on the shock tower to allow some movement when trying to align to the spring seat.
-A few steps can be saved on removal by using the vehicles weight to compress the spring. Remove the shock, install the compressor, and tighten the nut until it contacts the flat plate or shock mount. The vehicle can then be jacked up and placed on jackstands. The spring will already be compressed as you used the vehicle weight to do the job for you. The other steps of removing the A arm can now be followed.
On Nov-09-02 at 10:31:40 PST, seller added the following information:
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